July 31st: Danke je (thank you)
Was I interested in bicycle transportation before this study abroad? Yes, somewhat. Was I interested in spending the summer in Europe and not working? Extremely. I am admitting this now to show the degree to which this study abroad course has expanded my thinking on bicycle transportation, public spaces, and the power of stories.
So what happened? How did I go from being a reluctant bicyclists in Eugene to an adamant bicycle proponent? I came into the study abroad knowing some of the benefits of adding bicycle infrastructure and encouraging bicycle use; for health, safety, the environment, reallocation of space for more pressing and enjoyable uses, etc. What I learned over the past three and a half weeks, however, is how the bicycle can help foster community and increase our engagement with each other and our surroundings, how it can positively influence children’s development, and break down barriers related to age, class, and ethnicity.
Alongside the bicycling I found a deeper interest in public spaces. I have always believed that people connect best and are most creative and productive in places that “feel good”. Our physical environment undoubtably influences our feelings and thus our decisions, actions, and perceptions of others. Visiting cities that purposefully create “good” places and meeting with firms, such as Gehl, that elevate the creation of public spaces to an art, both reaffirmed and further increased my interest in public spaces. I am specifically interested in how they can be used to build social trust, something I believe we are in dire need of in the U.S.
If I were to choose a theme for this study abroad it would be stories. Stories about Copenhagen as a car dominated city in the 50s and the Stop de Kindermoord movement in Amsterdam. Stories from Anne Frank’s dairy and the story Hitler told the German people. The stories we tell ourselves about why the bicycle won’t work in the U.S. Stories, just like bikes and public spaces, are tools, and they can be used for both good and bad. We are lucky that we have the benefit of hearing and learning from stories of the past, though we must be humble and inquisitive enough to open our eyes and ears to them.
So what happened? How did I go from being a reluctant bicyclists in Eugene to an adamant bicycle proponent? I came into the study abroad knowing some of the benefits of adding bicycle infrastructure and encouraging bicycle use; for health, safety, the environment, reallocation of space for more pressing and enjoyable uses, etc. What I learned over the past three and a half weeks, however, is how the bicycle can help foster community and increase our engagement with each other and our surroundings, how it can positively influence children’s development, and break down barriers related to age, class, and ethnicity.
Alongside the bicycling I found a deeper interest in public spaces. I have always believed that people connect best and are most creative and productive in places that “feel good”. Our physical environment undoubtably influences our feelings and thus our decisions, actions, and perceptions of others. Visiting cities that purposefully create “good” places and meeting with firms, such as Gehl, that elevate the creation of public spaces to an art, both reaffirmed and further increased my interest in public spaces. I am specifically interested in how they can be used to build social trust, something I believe we are in dire need of in the U.S.
If I were to choose a theme for this study abroad it would be stories. Stories about Copenhagen as a car dominated city in the 50s and the Stop de Kindermoord movement in Amsterdam. Stories from Anne Frank’s dairy and the story Hitler told the German people. The stories we tell ourselves about why the bicycle won’t work in the U.S. Stories, just like bikes and public spaces, are tools, and they can be used for both good and bad. We are lucky that we have the benefit of hearing and learning from stories of the past, though we must be humble and inquisitive enough to open our eyes and ears to them.
Oosterspoorbaan, an old railway line converted to a park and trails system in Utrecht
July 30th: Human scale
Towering forests and giant cathedrals can remind us of our insignificance and make us feel small. Similarly the kids section in IKEA makes us (or at least me) feel huge and clumsy. Size and scale are just as important in cities, more narrow streets feel cosy and building of three or four stories are welcoming, not imposing. How we feel in a place effects how we interact with it and those we encounter. Do we stop and linger or hurry through? Do we smile at passerbys or keep our eyes lowered?
July 29th: Art
Over the past two days I have visited the Van Gogh Museum and the Moco, a small modern and contemporary art museum. The differences between the exhibits are stark, after all Banksy’s Rage, Flower Thrower and Van Gogh’s Sunflowers are separated by about 200 years.
Taking a step back, however, we find that both artists are interesting in conveying and provoking feelings. Van Gogh was more concerned with capturing the feeling of a landscape or portrait than the accurate visual depiction of the subject. He used color, particularly complementary colors, to achieve these ends. Banksy is similarly interested in provoking thought through images, from criticism of our consumer culture and degradation of the environment to the eternal hope we hold for the future. Given how important feelings are in our decision making process, the ability to provoke and convey ideas with just an image is extremely powerful.
Taking a step back, however, we find that both artists are interesting in conveying and provoking feelings. Van Gogh was more concerned with capturing the feeling of a landscape or portrait than the accurate visual depiction of the subject. He used color, particularly complementary colors, to achieve these ends. Banksy is similarly interested in provoking thought through images, from criticism of our consumer culture and degradation of the environment to the eternal hope we hold for the future. Given how important feelings are in our decision making process, the ability to provoke and convey ideas with just an image is extremely powerful.
Banksy: Rage, Flower Thrower //Vincent Van Gogh: Field with Flowers near Arles // JR: Giant
July 27th: Come again?
The hum, the hubbub, the muted chatter, the clatter of bike wheels over loose cobblestones and wisps of conversations from cafes. These are pleasant city noises. Sirens, horns, rushing car traffic, these are also city sounds, though considerably less pleasant. Walking through Amsterdam it’s not immediately evident (or at least it wasn’t too me), how much quieter the center of city is than Austin. It was only after I had adjusted to everything else; the flurry of movement and variety of sights, that I thought about the noise.
The more subdued noise of Amsterdam makes the City more approachable, more livable. It’s part of what makes outdoor cafe tables fill up before indoor ones and why people stop to spend time in public spaces. You are not overwhelmed with some inescapable, anxiety producing soundtrack of cars speeding off to destinations unknown.
Thinking about noise in cities is interesting; how does property value change around highways, train tracks, and airports? Where do we locate schools and hospitals? People wanting to have a conversation choose to not go to the noisy bar and everyone complains about the women who took a phone call on the bus. Noise sets the backdrop to our everyday activities and can both sooth and aggravate us. How many people do you know who set their white noise machines to play “construction noises” ?
The more subdued noise of Amsterdam makes the City more approachable, more livable. It’s part of what makes outdoor cafe tables fill up before indoor ones and why people stop to spend time in public spaces. You are not overwhelmed with some inescapable, anxiety producing soundtrack of cars speeding off to destinations unknown.
Thinking about noise in cities is interesting; how does property value change around highways, train tracks, and airports? Where do we locate schools and hospitals? People wanting to have a conversation choose to not go to the noisy bar and everyone complains about the women who took a phone call on the bus. Noise sets the backdrop to our everyday activities and can both sooth and aggravate us. How many people do you know who set their white noise machines to play “construction noises” ?
July 26th: Car space to green space
What do you think of when you think of public space? Parks, playgrounds, libraries perhaps. What we often don’t think about are the highways, roads and streets that both connect and separate our communities. Collectively these paved surfaces make up the majority of our public spaces, yet they are almost exclusively dedicated to moving and storing cars.
So what happens if we carve out some of this space for other uses? For small playgrounds and vegetable gardens, for benches and tables? For moving bikes and people instead of cars? The photos below are from an Amsterdam neighborhood that has done just that. The City asked neighborhood residents what they wanted more of, residents responded green space and bike parking, so out wen the car parkings; replaced with gardens and bike racks. Walking through the neighborhood I met Jackie, who lives on the first floor. She really enjoys the reallocation of space AND she still has a car...it’s parked in the parking garage under the near by canal.
So what happens if we carve out some of this space for other uses? For small playgrounds and vegetable gardens, for benches and tables? For moving bikes and people instead of cars? The photos below are from an Amsterdam neighborhood that has done just that. The City asked neighborhood residents what they wanted more of, residents responded green space and bike parking, so out wen the car parkings; replaced with gardens and bike racks. Walking through the neighborhood I met Jackie, who lives on the first floor. She really enjoys the reallocation of space AND she still has a car...it’s parked in the parking garage under the near by canal.
July 25th: Mini fridges & land use
Today we met with Meredith Glaser of the Urban Cycling Institute of the University of Amsterdam. More than the other professionals we’ve met with, Meredith delved into the transportation and land use connection. The linkage is innate, so much so that “the best transportation plan is a good land use plan”. Part of what makes Amsterdam so walkable and bikable is having destinations within walkable and bikable distances. Instead of having to drive to a grocery store miles away you can walk to the one at the end of your block. Because the grocery store is at the end of your block you can pop in whenever and pick up just want you need for dinner or tomorrow’s lunch. Because you only have to a day or twos worth of food on hand at any time you don’t need a massive fridge. TA DA!
Now think about what happens if the grocery store, your favorite coffee shop, your child’s school, that little cafe you love were all close enough to walk or bike to. Taking a car just seems ridiculous, it would take you longer to find parking at each location than it would to simply walk. Throw in some shops with enticing window displays and cafes with outdoor seating, nice sidewalks, and other people milling around and walking becomes even nicer.
Are there places like this in the US? Yes, there are pockets of walkable, extremely liveable places, places that feel “alive” or “active”, “vibrant”. Most people have been to a place like this, they like it and enjoy it, they are particularly nice if you’re a people watcher like me. There are also, however, many places don’t feel that good, places that feel dead or deserted, where you don’t want to linger or stop for a chat, a strip center parking lot comes to mind, the suburbs of Austin. Part of what makes these places feel so different is the underlying land use policies. The zoning that says that restaurants must be here and housing must be there. Sometimes there are legitimate reasons for separating land use, you probably don’t want a school next to a refinery, but for everyday necessities there are scant reasons for such separation. When done well, such that a coffee shop fits the neighborhood feel and is sized appropriately, perhaps buffered from homes with a green space and a small office or two, mixed use areas can increase property values and make a neighborhood more desirable.
Now think about what happens if the grocery store, your favorite coffee shop, your child’s school, that little cafe you love were all close enough to walk or bike to. Taking a car just seems ridiculous, it would take you longer to find parking at each location than it would to simply walk. Throw in some shops with enticing window displays and cafes with outdoor seating, nice sidewalks, and other people milling around and walking becomes even nicer.
Are there places like this in the US? Yes, there are pockets of walkable, extremely liveable places, places that feel “alive” or “active”, “vibrant”. Most people have been to a place like this, they like it and enjoy it, they are particularly nice if you’re a people watcher like me. There are also, however, many places don’t feel that good, places that feel dead or deserted, where you don’t want to linger or stop for a chat, a strip center parking lot comes to mind, the suburbs of Austin. Part of what makes these places feel so different is the underlying land use policies. The zoning that says that restaurants must be here and housing must be there. Sometimes there are legitimate reasons for separating land use, you probably don’t want a school next to a refinery, but for everyday necessities there are scant reasons for such separation. When done well, such that a coffee shop fits the neighborhood feel and is sized appropriately, perhaps buffered from homes with a green space and a small office or two, mixed use areas can increase property values and make a neighborhood more desirable.
July 24th: Why more lanes won’t solve traffic
Writing this I realized I have not yet discussed the idea of induced demand, which explains why adding more lane for car travel won’t make our traffic woes go away. Essentially increasing the road capacity encourages more people to drive. Those people who otherwise would have stayed home or taken transit to a destination decide, now that there’s not as much traffic, to drive instead. Thus new expansions quickly become just as congested as they were before new lanes were added. Are there other ways to build ourselves out of the sprawling, time sucking suburban environment we find ourselves in?
Space occupied by people in cars // on bikes // on a school bus
July 23rd: Trade offs//canals
There is only so much space*. Space for houses and offices and business, for cars and bikes and pedestrians, for schools and parks and hospitals. All cities have to decide how to allocate space, including Utrecht and Amsterdam. I’m bringing this up because the Utrecht canal in the picture below use to be a highway not that long ago. The City made the conscience decision to turn the area into a canal, now lined with cafes and shopping. Amsterdam, in the 1930s was confronted with the exact opposite decision, leave the canal or fill it in to make rooms for more cars. They opted, by a very narrow margin, for the canals.
*Copenhagen is currently using the spoils from its subway expansion to build up new land for additional housing and business, the sale of which is being used to finance the subway’s expansion.
*Copenhagen is currently using the spoils from its subway expansion to build up new land for additional housing and business, the sale of which is being used to finance the subway’s expansion.
July 22nd: Five thoughts
Tomorrow we head for Amsterdam, about 30 miles by bike. Today we spent some time reflecting on our trip so far; Copenhagen, Malmö, Utrecht, and everything in between. Below are five thoughts that have been bumping around in my head.
Rules: Coming from the States, we seem to have a preoccupation with rules. Some of the first questions we asked of the professionals we met were related to rules, “what happens if X”, “what do you do if Y”. The most common answer was a shoulder shrug and “eh, that’s not really an issue”.
At home we sometimes get more upset by the breaking of the rule then by the potential consequences of breaking it, wether they happen or not. In the cities we have visited there is a more pragmatic approach to traffic, just use your common sense, if you need to “break” a rule and can do so safely then break it. This is not a free pass to blow through red lights and school zones, just a note that common sense should have a role in our transportation as well.
Rules + some: Along a similar vein, design can be used such that excessive rules, regulations, and signage aren’t needed. Designing for behavior has the added benefit of helping those who aren’t familiar with the local rules and regulations (us!). Things like elevation, color, texture, sight lines, lighting, vegetation, and strategically placed street furniture can all “clue” users into correct behavior.
Try and try again: Visiting cities like Copenhagen and Utrecht it’s easy to forget the sometimes tumultuous paths the cities took to get to where they are today. Not every proposal was supported and not every plan turned out as hoped. Utrecht tried and failed twice to plan a redevelopment of the west side of the City, for them the third time was the charm. Creating bicycle infrastructure and culture does not happen overnight and is not without its setbacks, but being ok with failure and learning when you fall down is crucial for progress.
Water flows downhill: That much might be obvious, but it’s something we sometimes forget about when evaluating decision making. When you ask people in Copenhagen why they bike you typically end up with an answer like “easy/fast/convenient”, it’s not because they’re trying to save the rainforest or workout, they aren’t fighting for equality and access, it’s straight up just the EASIEST (read: laziest) thing to do. In a lot of US cities the easiest way to get around is by car, so of course that’s what we do.
Given this, if we want to encourage more bicycle trips we need to; 1) make it more difficult to drive AND 2) make bicycling more convenient that the car. How can we do this? Lots of ways, increase the cost of car ownership, we’re talking parking, gas, registration, license, etc. Make car routes less direct and convenient, and get rid of some of the excessive parking. At the same time we need to make bicycling a legitimate mode of transportation, it won’t do to just making driving more difficult. Adding bicycle infrastructure, the “hardware”, (lanes, signals, parking, direct routes) and providing the “software” as well, so teaching people how to bike and use signals, showing bicyclists how to interact with cars and pedestrians and vice versa to create an environment that’s safe for all modes of transportation.
Context Context Context: In my readings about encouraging bicycle use in the US the general theme is “separate, separate, separate” (bikes from cars). Make raised, buffered, cycle paths that feel safe to bike on and people will use them. In Utrecht and Amsterdam, however, bikes and cars mix freely, so how the heck does that work? It works because of the bicycle culture and history (and some infrastructure), because in those cities the car defers to the bike. It’s a good reminder that context and phasing are key, not just for progressing bicycle use, but for any plan. It’s akin to knowing your audience; push the envelope a bit and you may be able to make changes, leap over the envelope and you may get laughed out of the room. Most people aren’t fond of change, but it can be tempered to make it more palatable
Bikes build community: Social trust is something I was introduced to last term and have since become very interested in. Social trust is crucial to move society along, from trusting your neighbors with your spare key to trusting your government to make informed and reasonable decisions. Without it we are constantly looking over our shoulder and engaged in petty disputes. Bikes can build community and increase our levels of social trust.
Take a dark street with cars driving by; would you walk along such a street? Probably not. Now change those cars to bikes and walking suddenly feels safer. If you shout someone will hear you, if you fall someone can hop off a bike and help. We are more connected with our surroundings when on a bike, we move slower and closer to others. Flipping off another car is a common occurrence, but would you do that on a bike, to someone’s face? Removing ourselves from metal boxes and biking with others humanizes those around us. We smile at the man with two dogs in his front basket and empathize with the mother toting a crying child, we may even roll our eyes at the tourists who don’t yet know how to signal a left turn.
Rules: Coming from the States, we seem to have a preoccupation with rules. Some of the first questions we asked of the professionals we met were related to rules, “what happens if X”, “what do you do if Y”. The most common answer was a shoulder shrug and “eh, that’s not really an issue”.
At home we sometimes get more upset by the breaking of the rule then by the potential consequences of breaking it, wether they happen or not. In the cities we have visited there is a more pragmatic approach to traffic, just use your common sense, if you need to “break” a rule and can do so safely then break it. This is not a free pass to blow through red lights and school zones, just a note that common sense should have a role in our transportation as well.
Rules + some: Along a similar vein, design can be used such that excessive rules, regulations, and signage aren’t needed. Designing for behavior has the added benefit of helping those who aren’t familiar with the local rules and regulations (us!). Things like elevation, color, texture, sight lines, lighting, vegetation, and strategically placed street furniture can all “clue” users into correct behavior.
Try and try again: Visiting cities like Copenhagen and Utrecht it’s easy to forget the sometimes tumultuous paths the cities took to get to where they are today. Not every proposal was supported and not every plan turned out as hoped. Utrecht tried and failed twice to plan a redevelopment of the west side of the City, for them the third time was the charm. Creating bicycle infrastructure and culture does not happen overnight and is not without its setbacks, but being ok with failure and learning when you fall down is crucial for progress.
Water flows downhill: That much might be obvious, but it’s something we sometimes forget about when evaluating decision making. When you ask people in Copenhagen why they bike you typically end up with an answer like “easy/fast/convenient”, it’s not because they’re trying to save the rainforest or workout, they aren’t fighting for equality and access, it’s straight up just the EASIEST (read: laziest) thing to do. In a lot of US cities the easiest way to get around is by car, so of course that’s what we do.
Given this, if we want to encourage more bicycle trips we need to; 1) make it more difficult to drive AND 2) make bicycling more convenient that the car. How can we do this? Lots of ways, increase the cost of car ownership, we’re talking parking, gas, registration, license, etc. Make car routes less direct and convenient, and get rid of some of the excessive parking. At the same time we need to make bicycling a legitimate mode of transportation, it won’t do to just making driving more difficult. Adding bicycle infrastructure, the “hardware”, (lanes, signals, parking, direct routes) and providing the “software” as well, so teaching people how to bike and use signals, showing bicyclists how to interact with cars and pedestrians and vice versa to create an environment that’s safe for all modes of transportation.
Context Context Context: In my readings about encouraging bicycle use in the US the general theme is “separate, separate, separate” (bikes from cars). Make raised, buffered, cycle paths that feel safe to bike on and people will use them. In Utrecht and Amsterdam, however, bikes and cars mix freely, so how the heck does that work? It works because of the bicycle culture and history (and some infrastructure), because in those cities the car defers to the bike. It’s a good reminder that context and phasing are key, not just for progressing bicycle use, but for any plan. It’s akin to knowing your audience; push the envelope a bit and you may be able to make changes, leap over the envelope and you may get laughed out of the room. Most people aren’t fond of change, but it can be tempered to make it more palatable
Bikes build community: Social trust is something I was introduced to last term and have since become very interested in. Social trust is crucial to move society along, from trusting your neighbors with your spare key to trusting your government to make informed and reasonable decisions. Without it we are constantly looking over our shoulder and engaged in petty disputes. Bikes can build community and increase our levels of social trust.
Take a dark street with cars driving by; would you walk along such a street? Probably not. Now change those cars to bikes and walking suddenly feels safer. If you shout someone will hear you, if you fall someone can hop off a bike and help. We are more connected with our surroundings when on a bike, we move slower and closer to others. Flipping off another car is a common occurrence, but would you do that on a bike, to someone’s face? Removing ourselves from metal boxes and biking with others humanizes those around us. We smile at the man with two dogs in his front basket and empathize with the mother toting a crying child, we may even roll our eyes at the tourists who don’t yet know how to signal a left turn.
July 20th: What happened to the training wheels?
I’ve seen lots of children on bikes in Copenhagen, Malmö, and Utrecht, riding in cargo bikes, in seats on the front (with windshields!) and back of their parents bikes, and by themselves. What I haven’t seen are any training wheels. Instead, children learn to bike on pedal-less bikes (strider bikes), using just their feet and balancing between scoots. It’s only after the kids can balance that they get pedal bikes, often between the ages of three and four (small wonder they grow up to be such competent riders). Kids are able to bike to school and around their neighborhoods, and, when old enough, by themselves on more heavily used streets.
Growing up on bikes children are allowed more independence and the use of the bicycle as a mode of transportation is ingrained from an early age such that bicycling is the default way to get somewhere. Imagine reaching for you bike keys instead of your car keys anytime you need to run an errand; welcome to Utrecht.
Other great benefits of allowing children to bike early and often include the development of motor, social, navigational, and cognitive skills, increased engagement and observation, and the building of confidence and independence. Benefits of sticking a kid in the back of a car with an ipad....hmmm....
Growing up on bikes children are allowed more independence and the use of the bicycle as a mode of transportation is ingrained from an early age such that bicycling is the default way to get somewhere. Imagine reaching for you bike keys instead of your car keys anytime you need to run an errand; welcome to Utrecht.
Other great benefits of allowing children to bike early and often include the development of motor, social, navigational, and cognitive skills, increased engagement and observation, and the building of confidence and independence. Benefits of sticking a kid in the back of a car with an ipad....hmmm....
July 19th: Utrecht impressions
We arrived in Utercht on the 18th and we be here until the 23rd. Today we met with Ronald Tamse, a traffic engineer for the City. Utrecht, much like Copenhagen and Malmö (sensing a pattern here), made a conscience decision to prioritize bicycles over cars, and, according to Ronald, has progressed further then either Copenhagen in this endeavor. In Copenhagen bicycles and cars are provided for equally, with distinct spaces for each, in Utrecht the bicycle is given preference over the car such that that are allowed to mix with cars in many places with the understating that the bicycle is the dominant mode, the complete opposite of the States.
The lack of distinct bicycle spaces made me uncomfortable at first, I wanted to know where I was and was not allowed to be (please don’t honk at me!). Slowly though it dawned on me that bicycles are allowed EVERYWHERE and cars that have to defer to bicycles. Realizing this the entire City opened up and I began to see evidence of the bicycle/car hierarchy. While Utrecht does still have separated bike ways in areas there are also many places where cars and bikes mix freely. These mixing areas are intentionally designed to feel more like bike paths than streets for cars, from the color and texture of pavement (note how it matches the pavement on separated bike paths) to the more narrow width and lower speeds. The slightly raised median adds flexibility when multiple car and bicyclists approach at once.
The lack of distinct bicycle spaces made me uncomfortable at first, I wanted to know where I was and was not allowed to be (please don’t honk at me!). Slowly though it dawned on me that bicycles are allowed EVERYWHERE and cars that have to defer to bicycles. Realizing this the entire City opened up and I began to see evidence of the bicycle/car hierarchy. While Utrecht does still have separated bike ways in areas there are also many places where cars and bikes mix freely. These mixing areas are intentionally designed to feel more like bike paths than streets for cars, from the color and texture of pavement (note how it matches the pavement on separated bike paths) to the more narrow width and lower speeds. The slightly raised median adds flexibility when multiple car and bicyclists approach at once.
Complimentary to all of the bicycle streets and paths is the immense amount of bicycle parking in the City, the most boggling of which is the 12,500 space underground bicycle parking garage being built underneath Utrecht Central Station. Three quarters of the station is finished, the rest will open in August. You can bike in and out of the garage, it has indicators on each row of each floor letting you know how many open spaces there are, a bike shop should you need any repairs, and is well connected to the station above. This leave of infrastructure is not unique to just the central station though, commuter rail stations further out of Utrecht have indoor, integrated bike parking as well.
July 17th: Malmö
From Helsingør we rode 20 miles to tiny Ven Island, Sweden (a ferry was also involved), after a lovely night there it was another 30 mile ride to Malmo. Malmo is a town of about 300,000 located at the very southern edge of Sweden, right up against the water and just a 40 minute train ride from Copenhagen (a commute that lots of people make).
Malmö, just like Copenhagen, had a bicycle culture, 26% of trips within the city are on bike, but, after riding around in Malmo, it was clear that the two cities have very different approaches to bicycle infrastructure. Most evident is the abundance of two way (bidirectional) bicycle paths. While Copenhagen has separated bike paths (each way following car traffic), Malmö consolidated the bike paths, this produces a different flow and logic for cars, bikes, and pedestrians. Malmö city staff provided some additional insight into this difference. Malmö, much like Copenhagen, once had a very strong bicycle culture with uni-directional bike paths; after WWII Sweden fared better then Denmark, with more money the car caught on more aggressively and Malmo removed their bike paths to make way. When Malmö decide to push for a return to that bicycle culture bi-directional bike paths were more feasible from a political perspective. Bidirectional lanes can also be more efficient in smaller cities that have fewer points of interest.
Malmö feels much more familiar to me then Copenhagen, it isn’t seeped in history and time like Copenhagen (or most cities in the States). That level of familiarity makes me feel much more hopeful about realizing significant bicycle infrastructure in the US.
Malmö, just like Copenhagen, had a bicycle culture, 26% of trips within the city are on bike, but, after riding around in Malmo, it was clear that the two cities have very different approaches to bicycle infrastructure. Most evident is the abundance of two way (bidirectional) bicycle paths. While Copenhagen has separated bike paths (each way following car traffic), Malmö consolidated the bike paths, this produces a different flow and logic for cars, bikes, and pedestrians. Malmö city staff provided some additional insight into this difference. Malmö, much like Copenhagen, once had a very strong bicycle culture with uni-directional bike paths; after WWII Sweden fared better then Denmark, with more money the car caught on more aggressively and Malmo removed their bike paths to make way. When Malmö decide to push for a return to that bicycle culture bi-directional bike paths were more feasible from a political perspective. Bidirectional lanes can also be more efficient in smaller cities that have fewer points of interest.
Malmö feels much more familiar to me then Copenhagen, it isn’t seeped in history and time like Copenhagen (or most cities in the States). That level of familiarity makes me feel much more hopeful about realizing significant bicycle infrastructure in the US.
One particular idea from Malmö that I loved was “sommar gata”, summer streets. The program, first implemented three years ago, closes down a couple blocks in the city to cars from April to October. Restaurants and shops along the street set up additional seating and displays, spilling into the road. The City brings in planters and other park structures and strings up lights, making for very pleasant pedestrian and bicycle experience.
The program was initially met with a lot of skepticism and pushback, especially from business owners who feared they would lose business. The idea was pushed through in part because of its impermanence and low cost. Three years after the program’s beginning and businesses along the streets have reported increased revenue and the City has many requests to turn create more summer streets, currently there are just three. The City is still evaluating the possibility of permanently closing the streets to cars.
Walking along the street I wondered what residents (because there are three stories of apartments above most of the cafes and shops) think of the summer street. Kyra pointed out a women on the second floor of apartments standing in an open window who kindly answered my question. She much prefers the summer streets because there are more people about to watch and socialize with.
The program was initially met with a lot of skepticism and pushback, especially from business owners who feared they would lose business. The idea was pushed through in part because of its impermanence and low cost. Three years after the program’s beginning and businesses along the streets have reported increased revenue and the City has many requests to turn create more summer streets, currently there are just three. The City is still evaluating the possibility of permanently closing the streets to cars.
Walking along the street I wondered what residents (because there are three stories of apartments above most of the cafes and shops) think of the summer street. Kyra pointed out a women on the second floor of apartments standing in an open window who kindly answered my question. She much prefers the summer streets because there are more people about to watch and socialize with.
July 15th: Past and present
Walking around Helsingør and specifically Kronburg castle (below) I found it interesting to see present day life playing out against such a historical backdrop. It’s a stark reminder that what we build today will potentially still be around hundreds of years from now.
July 14th: Bikes in the burbs + safety
So the photos below are pictures of Helsingør, a quaint coastal town on eastern side of Denmark, but the true topic of this post is bikes in suburbia and safety. After experiencing bicycling in Copenhagen it’s not too difficult to imagine adding the same level of bicycle infrastructure to cities like New York and Portland (which happens to have about the same population as Copenhagen). But what about all the outlying suburban areas and smaller towns where everything is spread out?
Turns out that the bicycle is a great choice for destinations that are too far to walk to (which is most in suburbia), but so close that taking a car seems like overkill (which suburbia also has quite a few of). Did I ever feel guilty driving two miles to a bar in Eugene? Yes. But was I willing to walk two miles? No. So I starting biking. Then I started to see how many other places I could bike to, the hardware store, check, the grocery store, yes, two different ones, coffee shops, also yes, and the list goes on. Once I started looking, I found that I could bike to most of the places I needed to go.
But what about work? What about those long commutes from the suburbs into the city? Yes, those exist, and yes, driving is probably still the best option for many people. Bikes and cars are not an either or though, they’re an AND. Swapping just a few small trips from car to bike (try the library or an ice cream shop) is within most peoples’ power, and over time does make a difference. It’s pretty great watching your radius expand from two, to three, to four and even five miles, and arriving somewhere on bike, under your own power, that feels pretty great too.
So you have a bike and a destination within a reasonable distance. What are you waiting for? Ohhh, probably for the 40 mph traffic to slow down, for some separated or buffered bikes lanes, for some bike specific signals, for someone to teach you the bicycling rules of the road, and maybe for some bike parking at your destination. Because turns out (surprise surprise) that you don’t have a death wish! Most people don’t. In fact most people won’t bike if they feel unsafe. FULL STOP. You’ll get there some other way or just not go at all.
So how can we make bicyclist feel safer? Simple, do everything listed above; lower the speed limit for cars, add separated and buffered bike lanes, install bike signals and bike parking, and teach bicyclists, and drivers, the rules of the road.
Turns out that the bicycle is a great choice for destinations that are too far to walk to (which is most in suburbia), but so close that taking a car seems like overkill (which suburbia also has quite a few of). Did I ever feel guilty driving two miles to a bar in Eugene? Yes. But was I willing to walk two miles? No. So I starting biking. Then I started to see how many other places I could bike to, the hardware store, check, the grocery store, yes, two different ones, coffee shops, also yes, and the list goes on. Once I started looking, I found that I could bike to most of the places I needed to go.
But what about work? What about those long commutes from the suburbs into the city? Yes, those exist, and yes, driving is probably still the best option for many people. Bikes and cars are not an either or though, they’re an AND. Swapping just a few small trips from car to bike (try the library or an ice cream shop) is within most peoples’ power, and over time does make a difference. It’s pretty great watching your radius expand from two, to three, to four and even five miles, and arriving somewhere on bike, under your own power, that feels pretty great too.
So you have a bike and a destination within a reasonable distance. What are you waiting for? Ohhh, probably for the 40 mph traffic to slow down, for some separated or buffered bikes lanes, for some bike specific signals, for someone to teach you the bicycling rules of the road, and maybe for some bike parking at your destination. Because turns out (surprise surprise) that you don’t have a death wish! Most people don’t. In fact most people won’t bike if they feel unsafe. FULL STOP. You’ll get there some other way or just not go at all.
So how can we make bicyclist feel safer? Simple, do everything listed above; lower the speed limit for cars, add separated and buffered bike lanes, install bike signals and bike parking, and teach bicyclists, and drivers, the rules of the road.
July 12th: Copenhagen reflections
Tomorrow we leave Copenhagen for Helsingør, where we’ll spend two nights on the coast before making our way to Sweden. This blog so far has been mostly observations, not a lot of insight or reflections. I prefer to save those until the end, after I’ve had a chance to fill out the picture, which, for Copenhagen, is now.
One of the things I’ve found most surprising is my interest in the history and politics of Copenhagen. I do not consider myself a “history” or “politics” person, in fact I usually avoid the topics because I don’t know enough to discuss them. In Copenhagen though, the history and politics are reflected in the built environment. The city was nearly bankrupt so they turned to bicycle infrastructure. The people are engaged and trusting of the government, so implementing new, innovative projects, like Amager Bakke, a power generating trash incinerator with a ski slope on top, is possible.
One of the things I’ve found most surprising is my interest in the history and politics of Copenhagen. I do not consider myself a “history” or “politics” person, in fact I usually avoid the topics because I don’t know enough to discuss them. In Copenhagen though, the history and politics are reflected in the built environment. The city was nearly bankrupt so they turned to bicycle infrastructure. The people are engaged and trusting of the government, so implementing new, innovative projects, like Amager Bakke, a power generating trash incinerator with a ski slope on top, is possible.
The Danes also seem to be pretty pragmatic in general, they are not dead set on “their way or the highway”. Part of this probably stems from the nine party system they have, so coalitions are a necessity to win majority votes, but I think it is also related to their quality of life focus. Thinking of your neighbors and your neighbors’ neighbors and the people way across town, the people who are younger, older, richer, poorer, more abled and less abled, lighter and darker, is a part of their culture. When you place all people at the center of your decision making you create a city for everyone.
This people centered way of thinking is extremely evident in the amount and quality of public spaces. In fact Danes use public spaces as tools to reinvigorate downtrodden areas. This creates a positive feed back loop of sorts, good public spaces can help create community, kids play with other kids, dogs that aren’t yours run up to you, etc. These events spark conversations that humanize those older/younger/darker/lighter/poorer/richer people, encouraging us to widen our circle and broaden our perspective. That’s hard to do when you’re sitting in a metal box or in a gated community park, but easy when you’re side by side on a bike at a light or next to someone on a park bench.
If this seems a tad “touchy feely” it’s because it is. And if you’re reading this and thinking “there’s no way the U.S. would ever implement 30 hour work weeks and free childcare”, well you could be right, but wouldn’t you like to be wrong? We would like to think that we make our decisions based on numbers and facts, statistics and probability, and sometimes we do, but more often, day to day, we make them based on how we feel. Why else would people root for the underdog? Accepting feelings, both ours and those of others, as being just as important as the numbers is a step in the Danish direction.
This people centered way of thinking is extremely evident in the amount and quality of public spaces. In fact Danes use public spaces as tools to reinvigorate downtrodden areas. This creates a positive feed back loop of sorts, good public spaces can help create community, kids play with other kids, dogs that aren’t yours run up to you, etc. These events spark conversations that humanize those older/younger/darker/lighter/poorer/richer people, encouraging us to widen our circle and broaden our perspective. That’s hard to do when you’re sitting in a metal box or in a gated community park, but easy when you’re side by side on a bike at a light or next to someone on a park bench.
If this seems a tad “touchy feely” it’s because it is. And if you’re reading this and thinking “there’s no way the U.S. would ever implement 30 hour work weeks and free childcare”, well you could be right, but wouldn’t you like to be wrong? We would like to think that we make our decisions based on numbers and facts, statistics and probability, and sometimes we do, but more often, day to day, we make them based on how we feel. Why else would people root for the underdog? Accepting feelings, both ours and those of others, as being just as important as the numbers is a step in the Danish direction.
About those bikes...
Copenhageners, in the 80s, pushed to remove cars from plazas and reinstate the City’s pre-automobile bicycle culture. Crucial to this movement was the shared history and memory of that bicycle culture. Cities in the U.S. were once bicycle and rail centered too, old trolley lines can still be seen peeking through the pavement in Eugene. What we no longer have, though, is that shared history, too many generations have passed. While major cities, like LA, are reinvesting in rail (often along the same routes of the historic lines) the automobile is still the most prominent mode of transportation, and in many cases the only one most of the younger generations have ever known. In the week prior to leaving for Copenhagen I worked a transportation camp for high schoolers at Portland State University. One of the campers, who was a rising high school senior, had never been on a train until we took the MAX light rail. Lacking this shared history, how much more difficult will it be for U.S. cities to carve out space and money currently devoted to just one mode of transportation, the personal car, for other modes like bicycles and rail?
Design for children is design for all
I’ve already talked about the amazing playgrounds in Copenhagen, but their focus on children extends beyond playgrounds. Museums, like the modern art filled Louisianna and the Danish Design Museum, have dedicated children’s rooms with hands on activities, even local grocery stores (looking at you Netto) have child sized carts for kids to push around. Designing with children in mind not only contributes positively to their mental development, it also makes a city more accessible for everyone. If an eight year old can navigate a city and be safe in a city, most other people can too.
Additionally, I have not seen a singe small child with an iPad or phone. In Houston it’s common to see families eating out where the parents are talking and the small children have been handed an iPad or phone to occupy themselves. I have not seen that once in Copenhagen. Perhaps parents have more energy to engage with the their children, a 30 hour work week would certainly help, or perhaps they want thier children to be engaged with their surroundings. Fun fact: What’s the Danish version of a helicopter parent? A curling parent (because the vigorously prep the path for their kids)
July 11th: Playgrounds
One of the most delightful parts of bicycling through Copenhagen has been turning a corner and running smack dab into an playground. There are playgrounds all over the City, but these are no run of the mill playgrounds. Each has a different theme and all are highly interactive, they have splash pools, rock walls, zip lines, petting zoos, and trampolines. Basically everything you could ever want, even as an adult.
Today we met with Rhonda, a playground coordinator. She talked with us about the playgrounds, specifically the staffed playgrounds. Staffed playground are a uniquely Danish model, going back to 1939. Of the City’s 123 playgrounds 27 are staffed. The staffed playgrounds, which have between two and four people on hand, provide an additional level of safety, which is especially important in socially disadvantaged areas where drugs are more prevalent. Playground staff run programming, moderate the space, and provide small items, like bandaids and diapers to visitors, many of whom come to the playgrounds on a daily basis. During summer when it’s light from 4am to 10pm staffed playgrounds also employ teenagers, providing many with their first real jobs. These playgrounds are not just for children though, many also double as work out places and community centers, some are also used by local schools during recess as well. Rhonda told us about one specific program led by the police that teaches immigrant women to bicycle.
The staffed playgrounds reminded me of Eugene’s Downtown Ambassador Program. The Program employs a handful of people to keep an eye on the Downtown. They set out chairs and umbrellas in public spaces, provide help with directions and recommendations, and escalate issues when necessary (reducing the need for constant police presence).
One of the issues raised against public spaces in the States is that they attract vagrants, having staff can help ameliorate those concerns, as can having spaces for those populations. Copenhagen had a problem with drug use in parks, recognizing that they could not stop all drug use they created a “fixer house” a place where people could find sterile needles etc. and not be in spaces around children. While fixer houses will not be appropriate everywhere, understanding the needs of different populations, such as the homeless, and creating space and programming for them is an important component of public space planning.
Today we met with Rhonda, a playground coordinator. She talked with us about the playgrounds, specifically the staffed playgrounds. Staffed playground are a uniquely Danish model, going back to 1939. Of the City’s 123 playgrounds 27 are staffed. The staffed playgrounds, which have between two and four people on hand, provide an additional level of safety, which is especially important in socially disadvantaged areas where drugs are more prevalent. Playground staff run programming, moderate the space, and provide small items, like bandaids and diapers to visitors, many of whom come to the playgrounds on a daily basis. During summer when it’s light from 4am to 10pm staffed playgrounds also employ teenagers, providing many with their first real jobs. These playgrounds are not just for children though, many also double as work out places and community centers, some are also used by local schools during recess as well. Rhonda told us about one specific program led by the police that teaches immigrant women to bicycle.
The staffed playgrounds reminded me of Eugene’s Downtown Ambassador Program. The Program employs a handful of people to keep an eye on the Downtown. They set out chairs and umbrellas in public spaces, provide help with directions and recommendations, and escalate issues when necessary (reducing the need for constant police presence).
One of the issues raised against public spaces in the States is that they attract vagrants, having staff can help ameliorate those concerns, as can having spaces for those populations. Copenhagen had a problem with drug use in parks, recognizing that they could not stop all drug use they created a “fixer house” a place where people could find sterile needles etc. and not be in spaces around children. While fixer houses will not be appropriate everywhere, understanding the needs of different populations, such as the homeless, and creating space and programming for them is an important component of public space planning.
July 10th: Social capital
Today we met up with Em, a former University of Oregon design student who has been interning in Copenhagen for the last 9 months. She shared her knowledge of Copenhagen and Danish culture. She expounded on things that had only been mentioned tangentially before, both good and bad, like the level of civic engagement and the underlying xenophobia.
I found Em’s insights verified much of what I had been observing and hearing about Denmark, and Copenhagen more specifically. Danes appear to be more content with life and approach it at a slower pace, they aren’t always rushing towards something as we seem to be the in the U.S. While Danes do pay a lot in taxes they receive tangible benefits in return; including health care and free university. Digging even deeper though, the Danes place an emphasis on quality of life, not just for the individual, but for all. This is a departure from the very American emphasis on individual upward mobility and personal success stories (often measured in $$$).
The Danish also appear to be much more trusting of their government, perhaps in part because they see where money is going, and the system is somewhat more transparent to begin with. I think having and maintaining this level of trust is crucial when government decides to enact new policies. Instead of being subject to immediate pushback and criticism new ideas are fostered and even encouraged.
I found Em’s insights verified much of what I had been observing and hearing about Denmark, and Copenhagen more specifically. Danes appear to be more content with life and approach it at a slower pace, they aren’t always rushing towards something as we seem to be the in the U.S. While Danes do pay a lot in taxes they receive tangible benefits in return; including health care and free university. Digging even deeper though, the Danes place an emphasis on quality of life, not just for the individual, but for all. This is a departure from the very American emphasis on individual upward mobility and personal success stories (often measured in $$$).
The Danish also appear to be much more trusting of their government, perhaps in part because they see where money is going, and the system is somewhat more transparent to begin with. I think having and maintaining this level of trust is crucial when government decides to enact new policies. Instead of being subject to immediate pushback and criticism new ideas are fostered and even encouraged.
July 9th: People first
This morning we met at Gehl, an international firm based in Copenhagen specializing in urban design. Gehl takes an holistic approach to design and views people as the starting point in everything they do. For Gehl, livability begins with understanding people’s behaviors and needs and then considers how a space will be interpreted. How will people interact with the smells, sounds, and sights of a public space?, be that a plaza or promenade. While this seems like an intuitive place to start, it has been a sorely overlooked part of design until more recently.
Much of Gehl’s work focuses on public places and “the life between buildings”, which accounts for 25 to 35% of space in cities. Of that, streets account for 80%, making them the largest public spaces we have. Why then, is so much of our public space dedicated to moving cars? And, more importantly, how can we reclaim that space for public life? How can we take a 40 mph environment with vast swaths of asphalt, oversized billboards, and choking smog and turn it into a place that not only works for people walking, on bikes, and in cars, but also make it an enjoyable experience? Side note, Gehl is also working on the University of Oregon’s 13th Avenue redesign.
Much of Gehl’s work focuses on public places and “the life between buildings”, which accounts for 25 to 35% of space in cities. Of that, streets account for 80%, making them the largest public spaces we have. Why then, is so much of our public space dedicated to moving cars? And, more importantly, how can we reclaim that space for public life? How can we take a 40 mph environment with vast swaths of asphalt, oversized billboards, and choking smog and turn it into a place that not only works for people walking, on bikes, and in cars, but also make it an enjoyable experience? Side note, Gehl is also working on the University of Oregon’s 13th Avenue redesign.
I spent the second half of the day visiting the Royal Library and the Design and Architecture Center (pictures below). The Center’s main exhibit, “Formgiving”, the literal translation of the Danish word for design, was interesting, if a little overwhelming. Walking through all of the models and seeing how architects marry form and function to create beautiful places was inspiring, yet I couldn’t help but think about who these designs were for, and thus who is being left out of the beautiful future.
July 8th: Copenhagen past and present
Today we visited Copenhagenize, a design firm based in Copenhagen that specializes in bicycle planning, traffic, and communication. We spoke about Copenhagen, both past and present, turns out it hasn’t always been the biking Mecca it is today. In fact, Copenhagen in the 50s was just as covered in cars as most American cites are today. The beautiful plazas that are today full of people and cafe seating were parking lots.
Fast forward a few decades to the 80s and the Copenhagen was nearly bankrupt. The combination of making space for and maintaining infrastructure to support the personal automobile and the flight of affluent people (i.e. the tax base) from the City center was stretching budgets to the breaking point. It was time to make some changes.
Copenhagen made three big changes in their attempt to draw people back to the City; 1) upgrade the housing stock to better compete with newer residences outside of the city 2) create places people want to be, like parks and playgrounds, and 3) improve walking and cycling infrastructure.
The push to turn Copenhagen back into the bike city it was before the automobile was not just financial (though bike infrastructure is much cheaper then automobile infrastructure), it was also supported by Copenhageners who were tired of car traffic, wanted to let their children walk to school again, and were looking to reclaim public spaces and revive the City’s past bike culture, in this regard it was a bottom up movement by the people.
Fast forward a few decades to the 80s and the Copenhagen was nearly bankrupt. The combination of making space for and maintaining infrastructure to support the personal automobile and the flight of affluent people (i.e. the tax base) from the City center was stretching budgets to the breaking point. It was time to make some changes.
Copenhagen made three big changes in their attempt to draw people back to the City; 1) upgrade the housing stock to better compete with newer residences outside of the city 2) create places people want to be, like parks and playgrounds, and 3) improve walking and cycling infrastructure.
The push to turn Copenhagen back into the bike city it was before the automobile was not just financial (though bike infrastructure is much cheaper then automobile infrastructure), it was also supported by Copenhageners who were tired of car traffic, wanted to let their children walk to school again, and were looking to reclaim public spaces and revive the City’s past bike culture, in this regard it was a bottom up movement by the people.
Copenhagen 1960’s // Copenhagen present
Our meeting with Copenhagenize also touched on the various forms bicycle infrastructure takes throughout Copenhagen, because it’s not one size fits all. Throughout the City you’ll find a mix of buffered bike ways, raised cycle tracks, painted lanes and shared spaces.
Buffered bike ways // Raised cycle tracks // Painted lanes // Shared spaces
Buffered bike ways are what you’ll find along the largest ad fastest Copenhagen streets. This one, near the intersection of Gyldenlovesgade and Nørreport Sogade, runs next to five lanes. At the intersection, bicyclists receive their light prior to cars, so they get the jump on cars turning right across the bike way.
Raised cycle tracks are just that, dedicated riding spaces (sometimes buffered by a row of parked cars), that are a few inched above the road surface and a few inches below the pedestrian sidewalk. Cycle tracks are typical of most well travels streets in Copenhagen.
Not all streets have physical separation, some use painted lanes to delineate space for cars and bicyclists. The street pictured above, Rantzausgade, is unique in that it also has two traffic calming islands to slow car traffic.
Raised cycle tracks are just that, dedicated riding spaces (sometimes buffered by a row of parked cars), that are a few inched above the road surface and a few inches below the pedestrian sidewalk. Cycle tracks are typical of most well travels streets in Copenhagen.
Not all streets have physical separation, some use painted lanes to delineate space for cars and bicyclists. The street pictured above, Rantzausgade, is unique in that it also has two traffic calming islands to slow car traffic.
Cars and bicycles mix freely on shared streets, here there is no indication spatial ownership. Shared streets are typically much smaller, slower, and residential in nature, as evidenced by the number of cargo bikes (used to tote kids around) parked nearby and kids at play sign.
Copenhagen has cars....yes, really
I also want to a take a second to speak about cars in Copenhagen and their role in transportation. While nearly 62% of Copenhageners commute to work by bike, about one in four families also owns a car. While you won’t see many trucks or SUVs, Copenhagen definitely has its share of cars, they are on the roads, parked on streets, or in underground garages. Removing parking is also a contentious issue here, just as it is in many U.S. cities.
Interestingly, most people in Copenhagen acquire cars when they start families and have to tote kids around, not when they turn 16, like I did in the States.
Transportation, like most things, is a spectrum; of size and distance and accommodation. There are situations when walking makes the most sense, just as there are times that biking and driving and taking trains or flying works best. In dense urban cities like Copenhagen biking works well, but that should not and will not be at the exclusion of other forms of transportation. What is important is that we do not create environments that limit transportation choices or favor one mode over another.
Interestingly, most people in Copenhagen acquire cars when they start families and have to tote kids around, not when they turn 16, like I did in the States.
Transportation, like most things, is a spectrum; of size and distance and accommodation. There are situations when walking makes the most sense, just as there are times that biking and driving and taking trains or flying works best. In dense urban cities like Copenhagen biking works well, but that should not and will not be at the exclusion of other forms of transportation. What is important is that we do not create environments that limit transportation choices or favor one mode over another.
July 7.5th: Touring
Genetically Modified Little Mermaid (a humorous view of the postmodern society) // Waterfront at Nyhavn // Traffic playground (Trafikvejen) in Faelledparken where kids learn to bike without cars
July 7th: Better biking for all
Alright, now that I’ve been here a hot second I feel like I should share some of what makes bicycling in Copenhagen so much more convenient than in the US.
1) There are separated bike paths and bike signals EVERYWHERE.
2) You can bike to practically everything in Copenhagen.
3) Drivers are extremely aware of and courteous to bicyclists. This stems in part from Copenhagen’s policies regarding who is at fault in accidents (defaulting to automobile drivers) and the fact that many drivers are also bicyclists.
4) You don’t have to worry about finding a bike rack to lock your bike to because each bike has a handy self locking mechanism built in to the back wheel. The “bike racks” in photos are just used to keep bikes upright and (some what) corralled.
1) There are separated bike paths and bike signals EVERYWHERE.
2) You can bike to practically everything in Copenhagen.
3) Drivers are extremely aware of and courteous to bicyclists. This stems in part from Copenhagen’s policies regarding who is at fault in accidents (defaulting to automobile drivers) and the fact that many drivers are also bicyclists.
4) You don’t have to worry about finding a bike rack to lock your bike to because each bike has a handy self locking mechanism built in to the back wheel. The “bike racks” in photos are just used to keep bikes upright and (some what) corralled.
Bike signals (smaller than signals for cars) // rear wheel lock // bike rack
July 6th: How do you feel?
The complete opposite of yesterday, I woke up very late, like missed breakfast and almost lunch kind of late. Luckily we didn’t meet as a group until 18:30, for a bike tour. “Bike” Mike, born and raised in Copenhagen, took us all throughout the city, from Amaleneborg, where the Danish royals live, to The Little Mermaid (Den Lille Havfrue) in the Langeliene area, through Christiania, a military base turned commune, to Christiansborg Palace, where the Country’s parliament is located.
How far did we bike? I can’t say exactly, I was too busy taking in everything around me. Also turns out time flies when you’re engaged with and enjoying your surroundings, we biked from 19:00 to nearly 23:00, with a dinner pitstop part way through. On the tour Mike also talked brief about the differences between Americans and Danes. There was one bit that particularly struck me; in America we ask children “What did you learn today?”, while Danes ask “How did you feel today?” I think the difference in these questions sums up the respective values of each county pretty well, and perhaps explains the Danish emphasis on design that “feels good”, from chairs to bicycle paths.
So how did I feel biking around today? Good, but still learning.
So how did I feel biking around today? Good, but still learning.
July 5th: On the bike
Woke up much too early given how late I got in, but that just means I have more time to explore before the group meets up at 15:30 (military time here is anther thing to get used to). Picked up a tourist brochure from the hostel and headed to a near by coffee shop. After that I grabbed a SIM card at 7-11 (60GBs of data for $50? Yes, thank you very much) and headed to Designmuseum Danmark.
The museum is free for students and has exhibits of both old and new Danish design. My favorite exhibit was The Danish Chair: An International Affair. Both it and the other exhibits really showcased the thoughtfulness that seems to be the hallmark of Danish design. Little tweaks that make items more functional, more comfortable, and more intuitive (while also being aesthetically pleasing). I pondered over that thoughtfulness as I sat in nearby Kongens Nytorv, a large plaza with public seating. All of the seating is made up of pairs of chairs, so you can easily sit and enjoy the both the sun and people watching with someone, how very thoughtful.
The museum is free for students and has exhibits of both old and new Danish design. My favorite exhibit was The Danish Chair: An International Affair. Both it and the other exhibits really showcased the thoughtfulness that seems to be the hallmark of Danish design. Little tweaks that make items more functional, more comfortable, and more intuitive (while also being aesthetically pleasing). I pondered over that thoughtfulness as I sat in nearby Kongens Nytorv, a large plaza with public seating. All of the seating is made up of pairs of chairs, so you can easily sit and enjoy the both the sun and people watching with someone, how very thoughtful.
Thoughtful designs: double chairs // bike gutters // bag shelf
I the afternoon we met as a group at the hostel and got our rental bikes (sans helmets). We then made our way in small groups to our meeting place in a park not far away. Navigating Copenhagen on bike for the first time was trickier than I expected. Mostly because there were so many other bicyclists I had to be aware of, what a problem to have! Marc had tasked us with following a stranger on bike, which was a fantastic way to learn Danish ridding etiquette and intersection navigation (the trickiest part of riding).
July 3rd & 4th: Copenhagen arrival
A car ride to Portland, a plane to Seattle, another to Manchester, a missed connection, a plane to Copenhagen, a train and metro ride to the hostel (thank goodness those were still running at that hour), aaaand I finally arrived. If that sounds like a headache and a half it’s because it was. Did I wake up everyone in the room when I drug myself and my huge backpack in at a a quarter till midnight? Probably. Did I give one flying flip? Nope.
June 20th: About this trip
Begin the count down! On July 3rd I leave from Oregon for Europe to begin a four week long study abroad. We will be visiting Copenhagen, Helsingor (Denmark), Ven, Malmo (Sweden), Utrecht, and Amsterdam (Netherlands). Along the way we will be learning about the role of bicycling in urban transportation, how policy and planning can shape urban form and transportation choices, how design, safety, and legal issues influence bicycling, and how to successfully integrate and promote walking and bicycling in communities.